Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2005 4:31 pm Post subject: Cebu - in sync with nature
Southern Philippine island offers both luxury and simplicity
A tricycle driver waits for passengers on one side of the road while a mini van waits on the other side, in Lapu Lapu City, Cebu. /Peggy Carr, Taiwan News
Cebu is not your run-of-the mill Asian destination. The southern Philippine island has a charm all its own that stems from the special synchrony between the people and their natural surroundings.
From the moment we arrived at the Mactan-Cebu airport, where a local acoustic group played softy as we cleared immigration, we immediately sensed that we should change gears - and garb, and let the overt rhythm of nature guide us.
On the short journey from the airport to our hotel, it was already apparent that the year-round summer temperatures pretty much dictate the pace and style of life on this island. On the way to our hotel, we passed mostly tricycles, mini vans and jeepneys (mini pickup trucks converted to passenger buses), which are the predominant mode of public transportation. They are open on the sides to allow the cooling breezes in, but covered on top to shade the sun and are the perfect size for the narrow roads that crisscross this part of the island.
For five pesos (NT$3.7) you can ride a tricycle or jeepney to any "short stop" and pay a little more for longer trips. There are no scheduled stops or times. Passengers simply stand on the side of the road and flag down a tricycle or jeepney then let the driver know when they're ready to stop. That's the overriding style in Cebu - simple, casual and congenial, and we saw those themes repeated at different levels everywhere we went on the island.
The island's resources are incorporated into everyday life with unaffected artistry. In the Marigondon area, many of the structures are constructed with walls of patterned coconut weave that is very attractive and blends nicely with the abundance of surrounding coconut, banana and mango trees. The fruits from these trees find their way into the cuisine of every establishment, from the simplest to the most elaborate meals.
Lunch at the Krua Thai restaurant included curry crabs and spicy fried lapu lapu fish, and also featured an exquisite green mango salad, shrimp and vegetables cooked in coconut juice, fresh bananas and mangoes, and a variety of drinks ranging from fresh coconut juice to highly imaginative fruit blends. The immediate favorite, though, was the green mango shake that has a tangy and lighter flavor than the version made with ripe mangoes.
In the Abuno area in Lapu Lapu City, open front shops line the streets, most of them selling guitars of every size. One of the larger establishments, Algre Guitars, nestled between mango and jackfruit trees, displayed a range of beautifully handmade instruments ranging in price from 3,000 to 60,000 pesos.
The workshop - more of a shed that allows in the cooling breezes from the trees - is itself a work of art with walls and roof of natural fibers.
The craftsmen work the wood with loving care and appear to be under no pressure of deadlines.
"From start to finish everything is handmade," said Fernando Alegre, proprietor of Alegre Guitars.
There about seven such "factories" in the area, the focal points of the vibrant cottage industry that ensures the reputation of Cebu as the guitar center of the Philippines.
"The skill is passed on in homes to the young people," Alegre explained. "In terms of quality, Cebu guitars are the best in the Philippines."
As some workers start an impromptu jam on three guitars, that statement is easy to believe. It's the kind of music that people in the West often pay lots of money to hear. But here, it's all part of daily life, and while there is obvious pride in these skills, there is that easy, very natural connection with the music that makes it seem like no big deal.
"About 75 percent of the people in the Philippines can play the guitar," Alegre said, adding that it was one of the legacies of the Spanish Christians who colonized the area in the 16th century.
Filipinos in Cebu tend to be equally accepting of their Spanish heritage as their indigenous ancestry. They see no "bad guys' and "good guys." Rather, they are proud of the island's historical heritage and embrace the melding of cultures that ensued over the years.
Spanish, indigenous legacy
Nowhere is this more tellingly stated than in Lapu Lapu City where there is a shrine that pays tribute to Ferdinand Megallan who led the Spanish invaders in 1521 to claim the island for his country. In the same enclosure, is a statue of Lapulapu, the first indigenous Filipino leader to have successfully repelled the Spanish, killing Magellan on April 27, 1521.
This deliberate juxtaposition of enemy historical figures underscores the character of this island. For all its natural simplicity, Cebu does not lack sophistication.
As we set off on our mission to check out some the island's luxury spas, our first stop was at the Shangri-La Mactan Island Resort - a model of understated elegance. The general impression is one of wide-open spaces, with the buildings appearing incidental to that space.
Cebu is one of my favourite places in the Philippines.
In fact, the Visayas (the group of islands in the centre of the Philippines) are, in my view, by far the best place(s) to see and much more fun than the usual male tourist destinations.
Sounds like your trip was exactly like mine. I flew to Manila. Went to Puerto Galera the following day, was there for 3 or 4 days, then back to Manila and on a plane.
Too short.
Next time I'd like to get down through the Visayas or fly to Cebu. I may consider Palawan if I get into the diving a bit more.
If you can, fly directly into Cebu and make that your central "base".
The airport is much smaller than Manila, and customs / immigration/etc is far faster.
You can be at the hotels in central cebu in less than half an hour without the Manila type traffic.
From Cebu, one can get flights or boats to most other islands and Cebu itself is worth spending some time exploring.
If you like / want the girly bars, there are some there, albeit with prices higher than Angeles (but less than Makati) plus lots of other "adult" places as well.
I am actually affraid to go there because I know I would like it! I know some Philippinos and have been invited there on many ocassions too, but always put it off. _________________ Everchanging - Everevolving, Life's dynamic paradox; so remember- happiness is in the journey, not the destination.
I would also love to go there--mostly to see how people can like a place more than they like Thailand. It's gotta be addictive. _________________ Asia Expats Forum Expat Friends Dating
I would also love to go there--mostly to see how people can like a place more than they like Thailand. It's gotta be addictive.
Perhaps this has been mentioned before, but Thailand does not compare at all to The Philippines. The Phils are just so easy to get along with and much cheaper. If you know what I mean .... _________________ EXPAT IN CHINA
Last edited by Wocca on Thu Jun 02, 2005 12:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 12:10 pm Post subject: Cebu as a base
Alan Stepney wrote:
If you can, fly directly into Cebu and make that your central "base".
Good suggestion, Alan. I'll have to check into it more.
I stayed two weeks in The Phils in January 2005. Flew from Bangkok to Manila for a few days, then over to Puerto Galera (White Beach & Sabang) for a week. Boat back to Batangas & bus to Manila for a few days before returning to Bangkok.
I really started to get a feel for The Phils.
I'm now considering returning in July or August 2005. Cebu definitely seems to be the go for me.
I visited The Philippines for the first time at the beginning of this year. I flew into Manila from Bangkok, then later took a boat to Puerto Galera.
I've thought about going to Cebu next time.
Can anyone tell me about flight costs from say Manila?
You can go by boat to Cebu from Manila too. I did this just recently. I travelled from Cebu to Manila on Superferry 12 then returned on Superferry 17. If you are interested in seeing my video, go here and look for "Super Ferry":
http://www.cebutours.com/videos3.htm
At the moment there are a couple of discount offers going on. If you book far enough ahead (about 3 days), you should be able to get an airfare with PAL or Cebu Pacific for about P2,000 (about usd $36). Normal airfares are P3,000 or more depending on the time of year.
Regards: Jim Sibbick _________________ Free Philippines videos, Philippines pictures and my blog can all be accessed from my website http://www.bigjimsphilippinesexperience.com
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